The FICO score will be used to evaluate your qualification for a particular credit line or loan program and to calculate the applicable interest rate. Depending on their specific institutional needs, some lenders may use the highest FICO score or the middle score, or only one FICO credit score if the credit transaction is for a consumer purchase.

For instance, if you were to apply for a house credit card at a department store, they would run your credit profile (with your permission, of course) to obtain a FICO score. On the assumption that the store reports to only one of the three credit bureaus – as most department stores tend to do -, then the inquiry will go only to that bureau. The store would make its decision based on only one bureau’s information, and by using only the one FICO score.

The system works differently for mortgage credit. Banks report to all three credit bureaus (Experian, Equifax and Trans Union), so they would get three different FICO scores, calculated on three credit reports that the credit bureaus sent for scoring by FICO. Since there are three FICO scores, banks generally will use the middle or average FICO score. Depending on the type of financing you are seeking, whether it is for a new car, appliances, a credit card, or a home mortgage, your FICO score makes up a significant portion of the decision-making process. The FICO score will determine the premium rates you pay for insurance and the interest rate available to you on a loan.

Your FICO score is usually a composite of the following:

35% of your FICO score is payment history, and the key items include frequency, severity, and most recent occurrences of non-payment — which means that all late or missed payments will hurt your FICO credit score, but missed payments of more recent dates will have bigger effect;

30% of the FICO score is credit utilization, and estimates the balance of credit accounts in relation to the maximum credit available, with revolving credit lines (usually, credit card accounts) being the most significant;

15% of FICO scores cover credit history, the number of years credit has been established (the longer, the better; and one trade credit line for 5 years will affect the FICO credit score better than 2 trade lines for 6 months);

10% of the FICO score involves type of credit, which will monitor the mix of revolving credit inquiries, but will not include inquiries with no finance rating (as an inquiry from your employer, for instance).

As mentioned earlier, there are three FICO scores developed by the Fair Isaac Company – one each from the three major credit bureaus. Experian has the Experian/Fair Isaac Risk Model; Equifax has Beacon; and, Trans Union has Empirica. Consumers are likely to have a different rating with each agency, because although they all use the FICO model, each credit reporting bureau has its own set of reporting companies and there may be variations in the credit information that they send for calculation of FICO score.

There are other types of FICO scores:

• Application Risk Score – In this set-up, the lender uses a scoring system that includes a FICO score but also considers information extracted directly from your credit application.
• Customer Risk Score – Also called “behavior scores”; here, a lender may use the scores to make credit decisions on its current customers; this score uses the FICO score and also information on your payment history with that lender.

The range on your FICO score is from 300 to above 850 and would suggest a credit profile as follows:

FICO score 720 and above: This is a very good FICO score, and it suggests that the risk of default on your credit is very low. If the lender should find any exceptions in your credit report, these will easily be waived and set aside; and if there are any weaknesses in underwriting your credit, your high FICO credit score favorably compensates for that weakness.

FICO score 660 to 719: This is also a good FICO score, and suggests that your risk of default is low. This FICO credit score indicates that your credit history is acceptable.

FICO score 620 to 659: This FICO credit score represents a degree of risk. You can qualify for 100% financing, but certain conditions may be included in the credit agreement. The credit underwriter will more than likely consider you, but will investigate further to check whether you are: recently self-employed; have high loan to value ratios; have low cash reserves; exceeding normal debt to income ratios; staying in multiple dwelling unit properties.

FICO Scores below 630: Anything below 630 is a really bad FICO score. Your risk of default is very high, and you will need to present strong compensating factors to minimize credit risk before the underwriter would consider approving a loan. Some lenders may be willing to arrange 100% financing.

FICO score between 619 to 585: The underwriter can consider approving a loan but that depends on the credit issues, and may also consider an applicant with no previous delinquency and lack sufficient credit. Lenders are more likely to see mortgage delinquencies if they loan money to a consumer with a FICO score below 620.

FICO score between 584 to 500: You will have to explain your credit history in writing, and will need to pay off some of your debts and other payables; the underwriter may still consider you acceptable but the high risk factors should not be layered.

FICO score below 500: There may some serious issues outside your control that caused the setbacks. There are individuals who do not care so much about what happens to their credit. Perhaps this is what we should call Bad Credit. This does not mean the world has ended, though, and there is still hope.

The moment your credit report changes, your FICO scores will change as well. Your FICO credit score does not change from one month to the next at random, unless there has been a late recorded payment or an adverse report. While a late payment, collection or bankruptcy can be very damaging and will immediately lower your FICO scores, it takes time before you can raise your FICO scores. It is good to get in the habit of checking your credit profile every 3 to 6 months.

Your credit report must contain at least one trade line over a six-month period in order for a FICO score to be generated, and must have one trade line that has been updated in the last six months also. This will insure that there is enough information — and enough recent information — to calculate a FICO score.

Your FICO credit score is meant to be a measure of your creditworthiness as a borrower. In the mortgage industry, mortgage products change constantly, so if you manage your credit well you will almost certainly qualify for an advantageous home refinancing- or home purchase program. In the case of revolving credit lines, your account is reviewed periodically, and if you manage it well, you will likely be given more perks and privileges.

Credit-Wisdom.com Provides Expert opinions and reviews to help you Compare and Apply for a Credit Card – Compare Credit Card Offers with Credit-Wisdom.com – Unraveling the best in Personal and Business Credit Cards.

1. Your report does not show real estate loans – this was incorrect, I have had a mortgage for the past 7 years.
2. Your report shows that available credit across your open revolving accounts is too low – I only have one credit card with a limit of $3,000. They are telling me that if I had more credit cards my score would be higher.
3. Your report shows that the ratio of balances to credit limits across your open revolving accounts is too high – My balance on my credit card was approximately $900 which is only 30% of the credit limit which is the suggested balance that consumers should have on their credit cards.
4. Your report shows that the time since your oldest revolving account is too short. – Wrong. I have one revolving account, my credit card which I have had for the past 10 years.
5. Your report shows one or more inquiries on file – I had one inquiry in June 2005. One inquiry in February 2006 and one in October 2006. Inquiries should be obtained no more than twice a year unless you are doing comparison shopping. I am being penalized because I had two inquiries within one year.
Well, needless to say, I wrote each credit bureau and disputed all the reasons they gave me. I received two responses back and am waiting for the last response. After I receive it I will order a copy of my credit report again to see if my scores have increased. I have struggled to find out how one obtains an 800 FICO credit score or higher. From the looks of things it doesn’t seem like that is possible anymore. Whether you have good or bad credit, the credit bureaus will find ways to make sure your credit score is not as high as it can be.

I advise everyone whether you have bad credit or good credit to order a copy of your credit report once a year, read every single line on your credit report and read all of the information provided along with your credit report. Make sure everything listed on your credit report is accurate. Even a few points on your credit score can make the difference between getting approved or getting declined and we all need those extra points. Good luck!

Harrine Freeman is a speaker, personal finance expert and the author of, “How to Get Out of Debt: Get an “A” Credit Rating for Free Using the System I’ve Used Successfully with Thousands of Clients.

She is the CEO of H.E. Freeman Enterprises, a credit repair and personal finance services company. She is a member of the American Association of Daily Money Managers, SPAWN, Toastmasters, AAUW, National Association of Women Writers and the Women Network. For more information on how to get out of debt or to buy her book please visit http://www.hefreemanenterprises.com

You’ve done all your homework.

You know your three FICO credit scores.

You determine that your highest FICO credit score is from Equifax (also known as your BEACON score).

So, you find a car dealer who uses your highest score (which increases your opportunity to get approved at a good rate).

You get to the dealership and ignore all the salespeople by going directly to the finance director’s office.

But as the finance director reviews your credit file in front of you…you can’t help but think something is wrong.

Sure enough…the dealer says your Equifax/BEACON score isn’t high enough for their lowest interest rate.

How can this be? You just checked your FICO credit scores through www.myfico.com/12 a few hours ago. It’s possible—although unlikely—the information on your credit report has changed and that your scores have decreased since you last checked them. Remember, your credit scores are dynamic and will change whenever information on your credit reports changes.

Your credit reports can change several times each month as new information is added or updated by your lenders. But more than likely, your scores wouldn’t change in this situation (especially if there were only a few hours between when you checked your scores and when the dealership reviewed your credit reports).

So, if your credit reports didn’t change, why is the finance director staring at your scores with such a discouraging face?

Car Dealers Can Use “Different” FICO Scores Than The Ones You See

The car dealer is probably using what is known as the FICO Auto Industry Option score instead of a traditional FICO credit score. You see, car dealers not only get to select the credit reporting agency they receive FICO credit scores from…they also get to decide if they will use a traditional FICO credit score or a variation of a FICO score called an Auto Industry Option score.

What’s the difference between these two types of scores?

Not a whole lot to most people…but there’s enough variation to make the majority of auto lenders use the Auto Industry Option score. The real difference between the two scores is that the Auto Industry Option score pays a lot more attention to how you handled previous auto credit.

- Have you made late payments on a current or previous auto loan or lease?
- Have you ever settled an auto loan or lease for less than you owed?
- Have you had a car repossessed?
- Have you had an auto account sent to collections?
- Did you include your car loan or lease in your bankruptcy?

Those actions will affect your Auto Industry Option score more than they’ll affect your traditional FICO score. Bottom line, if you handled your previous auto credit perfectly, you should have a high FICO Auto Industry Option score—that’s a good thing.

But what if you’ve had a few bumps in the auto credit road in the past? You guessed it…your Auto Industry Option score will be lower. You’ll be perceived as a greater credit risk and the auto lender may either deny you or use your lower score to justify charging you a higher interest rate.

You see, auto lenders are different than other types of lenders. And I’m not talking about their slimy ways, leisure suits, short ties, manly hairy chests, or gold bling.

A lot of other lenders look at your whole credit picture to determine whether or not to give you a loan. But many auto lenders care about only one thing…how you handled your past AUTO credit. That’s what a FICO Auto Industry Option Score gives car dealers—a way to pinpoint how you’ve handled what matters to them the most.

So, even if everything else on your credit reports went down the toilet after your bankruptcy, if you didn’t include your auto loan in your bankruptcy and never defaulted or missed a car payment, your Auto Industry scores will probably be better than your traditional FICO scores!

What a Former Auto Finance Director Revealed to Me

I recently spoke with a former finance director, and this is what she told me…

“So many people I have helped couldn’t believe their scores were so high with the FICO Auto Industry Option score. They had included all their credit card debt and their mortgage in their bankruptcy, but they reaffirmed their auto loan. What’s good about the auto score is that it truly helps the auto lender concentrate on what is important—how the customer handles his/her auto loans.

By our dealership having the auto enhanced FICO, it helped 30% or more of our customers get better rates.”

I don’t believe I’m going to say this, but I think I may actually have found something good to say about car dealers! Well, some of them, anyway…

As you can see, the FICO auto scores can work in your favor, if they are used correctly.

OK, I just wouldn’t be able to live with myself if I only said good things about car dealers.

So, in the interest of fair and balanced reporting, here’s how to protect yourself against slimy car dealers that can use your FICO Auto Industry Option
scores against you…

A Dirty Trick Car Dealers Can Play with Your FICO Scores

Let’s imagine your Equifax/Beacon FICO score is 585. Not too good. With a score that low, if you do get approved for a car loan, you’ll probably wind up with a high interest rate and high monthly payment.

So you go to a dealership and talk with the finance director and tell him your Equifax FICO score is 585. The finance director then reviews your FICO Auto Industry Option score. And, unknown to you, this score is actually higher than the Equifax/Beacon FICO score you pulled.

With this higher score, you’ll get approved at a better rate…right?

Not necessarily!

Here’s what unscrupulous car dealers can do. They won’t tell you that your auto score is higher than your traditional score!

They figure they have a sucker sitting in front of them. So they’ll try to get you financed at a higher rate based on the lower FICO score (thus making more profit for themselves).

How Some Car Dealers “Play the Spread” to Get You to Pay More

Now check this out…

It’s possible that a car dealer has the ability to pull your traditional FICO scores AND your FICO auto scores. That means they’ll have six scores on you. It’s a guarantee that some of those scores are going to be higher than the others. So which ones will they use when trying to get you financed?

It depends.

Are you familiar with the term “spread”? It’s how car dealers make money when they finance you. If they can quote you a higher interest rate than you deserve—then they stand to make a nice chunk of change from the bank that finances you.

The only way to make a killer “spread” is to make you think that you have lower scores.

So, what can you do?

Don’t despair…I can help you.

How to Use Your FICO Scores to Your Advantage when Buying a Car

Fortunately, you don’t have to fall for their dirty tricks. Now that you know all about FICO Auto Industry Option scores, you can protect yourself. Here’s what I suggest…

1. When you first walk into the finance director’s office, don’t tell him what your FICO scores are. Wait until he reviews the scores himself. Then ask him what your scores are.

2. If the scores he reviewed are higher than the ones you have, don’t say anything and just go by his scores.

3. However, if your scores are higher, then pull them out and show him. If he has a choice in the type of scores he can use, there’s a possibility that he’ll be able to use your highest score. And, it will let him know that he doesn’t have a fool sitting in front of him. He can’t take advantage of you!

How do you find out what your FICO Auto Industry Option scores are before you walk into a car dealership?

You can’t.

Sorry. They’re not for sale—at any price. Only lenders have access to them.

FICO would like to sell them…but there just isn’t enough demand. I mean seriously, up until you read this article, had you ever heard of the FICO Auto Industry Option score?

Exactly.

Remember, we were just given access to purchase all three of our traditional FICO credit scores on June 11, 2003 at 8:00 a.m. (I actually got misty that day…what a geek I am.)

Only a very small percentage of the population even knows they have three FICO credit scores…let alone three Auto Industry Option scores.

So How Can You Use This Information to Help You Get Your Next New Car Financed at the Best Interest Rate

1. First, get your three credit reports. If you handled your previous auto credit well—your FICO Auto Industry Option scores will be higher than your traditional FICO scores. So expect more from the lender.

2. You can also ask the lender to show you their tier levels. Tiers are basically charts lenders use that have different interest rates based on your scores. You want to see which tier your fall in. To see an example of an auto lender’s tier schedule, click here.

3. If they won’t show you…at least have them break it down verbally for you. (Personally, I like to see it with my own eyes, as I never believe a word that comes out of most car dealers’ mouths.)

4. If you’ve handled your auto credit poorly…then you should simply try to find an auto lender that uses just the traditional FICO credit scores. When you find a lender that uses a traditional FICO credit score, you’ll have your best chance to get the lowest interest rate.

5. Start by calling dealerships and asking the finance director if they use a traditional FICO credit score to make their lending decision or if they use the FICO Auto Industry Option score.

These steps will get you headed in the right direction. This won’t be easy, as a lot of car dealers use the FICO Auto Industry Option score.

Stephen Snyder is the founder of the After Bankruptcy Foundation a non-profit organization that provides free bankruptcy recovery information He has helped thousands of people get a car loan after bankruptcy by showing them how to increase their credit score.

We all want to have enough money to pay our bills and have enough money left over to live. To accomplish this, we’re expected to manage our money and our credit wisely. Our credit score is a picture of how well we handle our debts. What are the typical purchases and decisions that are affected by a person’s credit score?

• Applying for a job
• Buying a car
• Purchasing a home
• Renting an apartment
• Applying for insurance
• Requesting a credit card
• Opening a bank account

This is only a short list of products and actions that involve a credit score. So, what is this mystery called Credit Scoring? It all starts with your “credit report”.

The three national credit reporting agencies are Equifax, Experian and TransUnion (with smaller ones including ChexSystems). These agencies act as warehouses for your information. Your credit report contains personal data, which includes your name (priors and variations), birth date, addresses, Social Security number, and past and present employers. In addition, creditor history, inquiries or authorized credit checks, relevant public records and collections are also used for identification purposes Your credit report card includes your creditor history detailing your accounts, payments to banks, credit unions, finance companies, mortgage companies, credit card companies, retail stores and other creditors. These credit lines detail if you pay on time, balances, credit limits, burden of debt and how long you have had your account. Other than you, outsiders can access your credit report by making an inquiry. Credit card companies are notorious for making inquiries, and you can see on the credit report who has accessed your account, and when.

Relevant public records and collections are also on your credit report. This may include bankruptcies, foreclosures, tax liens and any collection agency debts you may have incurred. A foreclosed property can remain on your report for as long as seven years, Chapter 7 bankruptcy for 10 years and, depending on your state, unpaid tax liens can remain on your credit report indefinitely.

The industry standard for calculating a credit score was invented by The Fair Isaac Corporation (FICO). The scores generate a three digit number ranging from 300 to 850. Credit scores are used to assess your level of credit risk by predicting whether you will pay back your credit obligations in a timely fashion. The higher your score, the better credit risk you are. Because there are three different credit agencies, consumers who have a credit report have three FICO scores. Creditors use these scores to determine if they are going to grant credit to a consumer and what interest rate they will charge.

Are you 100% confused yet? It might bring some consolation to know that information sharing is getting better. Prior to 2001, consumers did not have access to their credit scores. Now you can get free copies of your credit report once a year from each of the three reporting agencies.

Uncle Credit Score is watching you and constantly adding or deleting information. But you do have influence over your score and the fluctuations that can have instant impact. The following is a sampling of some actions you might take that can affect your score:

• Paying your mortgage on time
• Applying for a credit card
• A late payment or closure of a credit card

Your level of debt and payment performance account for 65% of your FICO score. Lenders can also consider your income, a spouse’s income, an appraisal report from a licensed appraiser and other factors when considering an application for credit. If you are turned down for credit, by law, lenders must advise you of the reason in a rejection letter. There could be an error in your credit report which you can fix and possibly increase your score. All the more reason to check your credit reports regularly.

Kurt Lehman is a financial services expert and writes about ChexSystems banks and problems as well as payday loan debt

Sometimes a credit score is also referred to as a FICO score. The term FICO comes from the Fair Isaac Company and is the method that is preferred and used by most credit bureaus to calculate a credit score.

Credit scores range from a low of around 350 (very bad credit) to a high of around 850 (excellent credit). An average score is between 650 and 700, which is where most consumers would not have big problems in getting approved for a new account. But if your score falls below the 600 range, you are going to have difficulty in being approved, at least at prime lending rates, for a loan, credit card, or new line of credit because potential lenders will view you as being a higher risk.

One thing you should note is that you should check your credit report at least once a year from each of the three major credit bureaus. It should come as no surprise to learn that the majority of consumer and business credit reports contain errors and mistakes, and the only way those get corrected is if you dispute the entries with the credit bureaus. If you have 2 or 3 negative entries on your credit report that should not be there or are being reported incorrectly, those by themselves could lower your credit score by as much as 100 points or more.

Assuming you have already gotten the inaccurate entries removed from your credit report, let’s find out how a credit report is scored. Approximately 35% of your score depends entirely on how timely you pay on your monthly financial obligations. Always make it a point to pay your bills on time, and preferably before the due date so that you can be sure that the payment is posted to your account by the due date. Note that this is more than one third of your entire score, so you can see how important it is to make your payments on time each month.

About 30% of your score depends on the level of your outstanding balances to your credit limits. This is primarily for credit cards and department store charge cards. The standard rule of thumb is to try to keep your outstanding balance at one third to one half or less of your credit limit so that it does not appear that you are stretching your credit to the limits. No matter what you do, try to NEVER exceed your credit limit, since that act will lower your credit score almost overnight.

Approximately 15% of your score is related to the length of your credit history, or in other words, how long a period of time your credit report covers. The longer the better. For a young married couple or a student fresh out of college, they may have only a year or two of credit history, whereas many people have a decade or more of credit history on file.

As a surprise to many consumers, about 10% of your score is based on the number of credit inquiries on your credit report. If you submit a lot of credit card applications just because you got them in the mail, each of those causes an “inquiry” on your credit report, and too many inquiries will lower your score.

The remaining 10% is dependent on the type of mix of financial obligations you have. For example, with a mortgage, a car payment, an installment loan, a couple credit cards, and a couple department store cards, you have a good mixture of different types of credit, and this shows your flexibility in being able to manage all of these.

Being aware of how your credit is calculated can help you keep financial strategies in mind so that your credit score can be as high as it should be for you.

For more insights and additional information about how to Raise Your Credit Score as well as getting a free copy of your credit reports, please visit our web site at http://www.credit-help-center.com

You will need to pay for reports from the three, third party companies and you will need a report from each for a complete credit history. These may cost about $9 per report. However, this is a small price to pay for the comfort of knowing that your finances are in order and that no one is attempting to use your personal details to open credit accounts. These reports may be sent by mail or can be obtained online. It is worth looking at these credit-monitoring companies websites since they may have trial offers where they offer you a free credit report. This would allow you to obtain your report and you can cancel your account with them before you need to make any payments.

You will also receive your FICO score with the report, along with some advice on how you can improve this score. FICO is named from Fair Isaac Corp., which is the company that invented the score. It is a three-digit number that encompasses your entire financial history. This score is based on information from the three, credit monitoring companies and includes all information from your payment history from loans or credit cards to bankruptcy filings that have been made. The lower the score the better your credit history and it is surprisingly important since many business that you would never imagine needing it, use it to find out about your financial status. Obviously lenders use the FICO score to assess you as a potential borrower. However, did you know that employers may access your score as well as landlords who may wish to see if you are likely not to pay your rent and if they need you to put down a larger deposit, or even insurance companies. These companies use the score to assess the risk you may be as a potential client and there fore set the policy prices accordingly.

As you can see, the FICO score is used by many different people who want an idea of your finances. It may not be entirely accurate, but it is most often used due to its ease of use, as most companies won’t want to read numerous credit reports of all the people that they deal with. It is therefore critical that you do everything you lower the score and keep it as low as possible. Many years of buying on your credit cards without having the money to pay off the account can leave you with a high number that will be held against you long after you have forgotten what you bought. But there are ways that you can improve your credit rating and therefore FICO score.

First of all, always dispute things that are not accurately depicted on the report. For example, if there is a record of late payments on a credit card account but you don’t think it is true contact the creditor and credit agency by post. They will have to investigate the matter and if the creditor does not get in touch within 14 days, the bad credit will be dropped from your report, instantly improving your score. Easy isn’t it! In fact, disputing any mistakes is the easiest and most direct way to lower your score.

Other ways your FICO score may be lowered include spreading the cost of your credit card debts especially with the increase in 0% on balance transfer deals that are available today. Also, close any accounts that you are not using.

Since your credit score has such a strong influence during your life, it is advisable that you obtain a report once a year so you can check for any mistakes and make sure that you are doing everything possible to improve your rating. This is the first step you can take to ensure that you have a solid financial future.

Still need more information? Then visit http://www.essentialcreditreports.com for more of my articles.

Payment History

Do you pay your bills on time? Most creditors, lenders, and service providers will charge a fee if you do not. Obviously, the biggest thing wrong with that is the egregious waste of money. What is worse in the long term is that after 30 days of nonpayment, the lender will likely report you to one of the major credit bureaus. (In the U.S., there are three such credit bureaus: Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion.) Considering that thirty-five percent of your credit score is based on payment history, it becomes clear how important it is to keep up with your financial obligations. No other single factor has that much influence on your FICO score.

Debt to Total Credit

The ratio of your outstanding debt to the total of your credit lines and loan amounts counts for thirty percent of your credit score. For example, if you have a credit card with a limit of $5000, and you owe $4000, your debt to total credit ratio is eighty percent. After paying down $3000 of the principle, your outstanding balance is $1000, giving you a ratio of twenty percent, which is much better.

If your outstanding balance occupies seventy percent or more of your total credit line, it is viewed negatively by the credit bureaus. If the ratio is in the range of thirty to seventy percent, it is doing little or no harm to your credit score; however, it certainly is not helping your credit score. Bring your debt to less than thirty percent of your total available credit, and your FICO score will very likely improve. Getting balances and, therefore, debt to credit ratios down to zero is clearly a desirable goal. It is important to remember, though, that unused credit will not help your credit score. We will explore that topic a bit later.

Length of Credit History

Fifteen percent of your FICO score is based on how long you have had some type of credit. The perception is that someone who has owned a credit card for twenty years is more likely to be responsible and credit worthy than a young person right out of high school who has the same credit card. Although this is true generally, it is certainly not always the case; that is why it is weighted significantly less than payment history and the debt to credit ratio.

New Credit

If you have one credit card for ten years, and then you apply for and receive three more credit cards, expect your credit score to come down a bit. A long-established credit account is considered more stable than a new account. Of course, how your credit score reacts to new credit is also affected by other factors. A new card will increase your total credit line, thereby reducing your debt to credit ratio. An old credit account with a poor payment history is worse than a new account in good standing. All things being equal, new credit is not bad, but old credit is very good. New credit accounts for ten percent of your FICO score.

Unused credit is considered very much like new credit. If you can use a credit card every month, and pay off the balance in full every month, you will see your credit score increase steadily. This is difficult for many people, because of the temptation to overuse the credit card. Responsibility and restraint are critical when using this technique. Remember that, even though unused credit is not very good, it is not at all bad; overused credit is.

Types of Credit Used

The remaining ten percent of your credit score is based on what type of credit you have used. A retail store credit card is not very good. Too many of them could be bad for your credit score, in fact. Small loans, if paid off in a timely manner, have a positive effect. Major credit cards are even better. Big ticket items like auto loans and home mortgages are very good, once again provided that you make the payments on time.

These five areas are the basis for your FICO score. Armed with this knowledge, you are better equipped to make the changes necessary to improve your credit score. An overwhelming majority of lenders will use your FICO score when considering your application. Put yourself in position to get the best possible deal. Read this article again, and then get started!

Michael Rasco created WarOnCreditCardDebt.com to help others attain victory over debt, and control over their lives. This information is based on his research and lengthy personal experience with the burden of credit card debt.

Credit card horror stories are everywhere, and there is a good chance you know somebody who has experienced something similar to this:

A young college student received a credit card offer in the mail. As a full-time student, he did not have a steady income and wondered how he managed to qualify. His credit rating was based entirely upon his potential to earn income as a future college graduate, and the complete lack of negative information in his file.

The student carried his freshly minted card in his pocket for several weeks, resolved to never use it, except for an emergency. Near the end of the semester he and a few classmates were pulling an all-night group study session in preparation for final exams. Around midnight somebody suggested they call out for pizza. They pooled around twelve dollars in cash between them and nearly gave up in frustration when our hapless credit worthy student volunteered his credit card. It was a small beginning, as these things typically are, but credit use is like an addictive drug. It is so easy to use, and the pain of repayment is always somewhere down the road—too far away to be associated with the enjoyment of pizza tonight.

By the end of the school year, the student had accumulated over $1,000 in debt on his card. While his monthly payments remained small, they represented a significant strain on his budget. His monthly allowance from home was now being spent to make credit card payments, which meant he had to use the card to make more routine purchases. The balance grew out of control, leading to a destroyed credit rating.

Another example of credit card use involved a young lady who worked a low paying job. She had dreams of a better life and spent a lot of her time looking for real estate investment opportunities. She carried four credit cards, with an available cumulative balance of around $12,000.

One day after work she came across a small house for sale by owner. It needed some work, but following an analysis of the market, she knew this home was worth more than the asking price. Using the cash option on her cards, she obtained $10,000 to make the down payment and cover closing costs. The owner carried the financing at a fair interest rate.

After closing she immediately set to work cleaning up the property. She then had it professionally appraised and listed for sale. For three months she managed to make the minimum payments due on her cards before the house eventually sold for a modest profit. At closing the buyer assumed the loan due to the original owner, leaving a little less than $20,000 profit. She immediately paid off her balance due on all of her credit cards, and parked around $8,000 in her bank account.

Both of these stories illustrate the power and dangers of credit card use. While it is not advisable to get involved in investments using credit cards, it is an option when quick cash is needed to capitalize on opportunity.

If you are resolved to obtain a credit card, but have difficulty getting approval due to your FICO scores or payment history, you may want to try one of the following steps.

1. Apply for a credit cards from a retail store, such as Sears. The best way to approach a retailer is with a proposed purchase. Walk into the retail store of your choice. Pick out an item you need. At check out you will be asked for payment of course, at which time you announce your desire to pay with their credit card. Chances are your approval may be granted by the store manager within minutes. Some gas stations still offer credit cards you can use exclusively at their stores. Again, the standards for apporval here are generally lower than the Visa, MasterCard, and American Express options. If your applicatin is approved, be careful not to over extend yourself. Use your credit privileges wisely and make each payment on time. Within a few months you will probably be receiving major credit card offers in the mail.

2. Talk to your bank or credit union representative. Even with lousy credit, sometimes small banking institutions that already have your business may be willing to extend you credit. This is especially true if youhave a history of maintaining a positive balance in your account, and have not bounced checks through them. If your banker refuses you credit, ask them about secured cards. This is not the best option for credit cards, and in fact creates some limitations on usage. However, if everything else has failed, you may need to establish a pattern on reliable payments to qualify for a regular card. Secured cards are backed by money you have placed in a savings account at the bank.

3. Another option, which in my opinion should be your last resort, is to find a co-signer. In most cases this will be a family member. Your balance due on credit card debt becomes a responsibility of the co-signer, making it vitally important that you make the payments on time. In your eagerness to accept the terms for a new credit card, take time to review the specific terms of your agreement. Before replying to an offer, or submitting an application you need to know the following at a minimum about who you are doing business with: What is the current interest rate charged? How long will this rate stay in effect? What is the rate after the conclusion of my introductory period? What upfront fees are due and payable before I can use the card? What are the annual service fees? What are the rates for cash advances?

I understand you may not be in the position to be particular, but there are some things you should not tolerate. I will not tolerate annual service account fees, outrageous interest rates, and up front fees to activate my account. In fact, I want the company offering me a credit card to pay me. That is, I want a super low interest rate for a set period of time which will allow me to transfer balances from higher interest rate cards.

You should be especially wary of changing interest rates. Frequently, credit card companies offer low rates for a given period of time (usually 3-6 months) in order to entice you in to getting their card. If you haven’t read the fine print on your terms of agreement, you wil be surprised by how much the new rate can vary from the introductory rate. Be wary of this and don’t allow yourself to build a huge balance, just in time to enjoy a 25-60% APR. If this happens to you, find a new card quick, and transfer the balance to a card with a lower APR.

Phillip Collinsworth is the author of several books available on Amazon. He hosts a website offering free information on wealth building, and finding income opportunities through Internet marketing. Visit:

http://www.wealthsearch.org

But you’re different. You’ve worked hard to improve your credit score by making sure you’ve paid all major credit cards on time every month without fail. But consider this: could a late payment to the local video store rental club unravel all you’ve achieved?

A record number of credit card companies have built “universal default” clauses into their agreements, which allow them to raise your interest rate if you’re late making a payment — even to someone else!

Is there such a danger lurking in the fine print of your credit card contract (blithly referred to as “the agreement” by the companies)? Is there a nasty surprise waiting inside your next monthly credit card statement?

Lately, news reports of more and more people becoming aware of the so-called “universal default” clause buried in the fine print in their credit card agreements; becoming aware not because they were curious about this heavy-handed new trend, but because they have been personally affected by the clause — a clause that sometimes spikes the monthly revolving interest rate up as high as 30%!

How could this happen, you say? Well, some credit card companies — apparently on a new search to implement new fees to increase corporate profits — have introduced this onerous high-interest penalty on their customers.

Is it fair? Not in the minds of those affected — and certainly not to those who have never even missed a payment due date with that particular company!

See, the universal default clause could affect you if you so much as get a late medical bill (which is a common occurance since hospitals in our part of the country are notorious for having outdated billing systems).

The trend is definitely on the rise. A recent survey detected nearly 4 out of 10 credit card issuers report that they apply the rule to their customers, even if those customers had no late payments on their own card! (How’s that for “customer service” ?!?!)

It could affect you if your credit score slips due to a late car payment, or a late utility bill, or a number of other reasons that you probably won’t know about until it’s too late and you’re faced with loan-shark-level interest rates on your total balance. It could involve a late phone bill or a forgotten $15-a-month book subscription service — easy to forget, yet hard to swallow when the higher credit card interest kicks in.

It’s a shame that these companies take advantage of the very people who are contributing to their record profits by basically playing hardball over trivial payments, especially when these payments do not affect those companies’ stream of regular payments in any way. They can profess that such behaviours present an unacceptable credit risk for their shareholders. But they should be ashamed of doing this to ordinary, hardworking middle class people who are struggling to make ends meet.

Three solutions come to mind:

(1) Get rid of debt now. Make the decision to read over the free information on this website and do whatever it takes to eliminate the balances on these credit cards, and once they are paid off, call the company and close the account.

(2) Be careful to make all your future payments on time, and aim to make them BEFORE they are actually due.

(3) Carefully, cautiously, painstakingly, read, read and re-read all future (even current) credit card agreements you are affected by. I’ve noticed a few of my card issuer’s have included new terms and agreements in recent credit card statements that specifically tell me they DO NOT follow this practice — but then go on to alert me to other penalties I could face if payments are ever late.

The solution for me — and hopefully for you — is to develop a satisfactory, working system to track all your debts, pay your bills on time, and take steps to reduce debt through the tips found on this website and at others. We’ve tried our best to link to good quality resources to help you in your quest.

There is a great new book we’ve come across, “Solve Your Money Troubles: Get Debt Collectors Off Your Back & Regain Financial Freedom” written by Attorney Robin Leonard and published by NoloPress, that offers a comprehensive solution to getting your finances in order. It’s a great resource.

Paul Richard, executive director of the San Diego-based nonprofit Institute of Consumer Financial Education was recently quoted as saying:

“Universal default complaints are definitely on the increase — at a disturbing rate. More than one-third of major credit card issuers now say they act on these clauses regularly.”

He added that many consumers were still unaware of the dangers because they either don’t read or don’t understand the credit card agreement. I, for one, would like to add an “Amen” to this last reason, as the language of these agreements seem like you’re signing away ALL of your rights!

Scott Bilker, author of “Talk Your Way Out Of Credit Card Debt” reports a growing number of credit card companies check your credit file at regular intervals, and if you’re late paying any other bills — not just theirs — they raise the low interest rates enjoyed at the beginning of your cozy credit relationship you started with them, and, in many cases, double or triple what you are charged to carry a balance!

Credit card firms have ways to review your credit report monthly, quarterly, even yearly. It is also true that some companies never do this (yet!). Experts note that customers who have made late payments on their accounts in the past can expect to get reviewed more often than those who always pay their bills on time.

The real worry growing is that this default clause can do lasting, unexpected damage to your FICO credit score in ways most people have never imagined. Sometimes it could happen at the worst possible time, like right when you are planning on buying a new car or a new home. Problem is, at the time negative marks appear on your credit report, the scores will drop, the damage is done, and only the passing of time and intensive effort on your part will be required to start the process of improving your credit history all over again.

More questions you need to ask yourself:

Do you carry a large credit balance? Transfer to a low fixed rate card that does not include the universal default clause buried in the fine print. If you are unsure, call the issuing company and ask.

Do you know what’s happening with your accounts? Review them carefully. Read over each bill when it arrives in the mailbox, check its due date, pay the bill RIGHT THEN, or mark on your calendar when to mail it (we recommend mailing it ONE WEEK BEFORE THE DUE DATE or else making the payment online THE DAY BEFORE IT IS DUE. For added safety, you can pay about 60cents at the U.S. Post Office to have your credit card check signed for. If you have 5 or less bills you pay this way every month, that would only add up to $36 for the year, and you’d have written proof as to when those payments were received if a dispute ever arose.

Do you know how to file a dispute with the companies you do business with? We are rapidly leaving behind the days when you can call up and ask for forgiveness for a late payment, it just doesn’t work well these days. But if you take action promptly to work out something with your lender or with your credit card issuer, then perhaps you have a chance to avoid these incredibly high interst rate surcharges. Don’t avoid the problem and wait to deal with it until after your account has been sent to a collection agency. By this time, your credit score is probably doomed to deflate.

Do you have lists of your credit cards, balances, limits, interest rate and payment due dates safely tucked away where you can quickly find them? Get your financial house in order and come up with a master bill paying list to help yourself track which payments are due when. Usually, this is pretty easy, since most payments fall due on the same day of each passing month. A cheap calendar ought to work in a pinch.

Is the timing of your payments creating a hardship? If you are paid twice monthly, and your payments all come due at once in the month, perhaps you need to get in contact with your credit card companies and ask them to have your due dates changed to help you make the payments on time. I’ve found that most firms appreciate such a proactive approach and will do what they can to accommodate you.

Do you pay your bills ON THE DAY THEY ARE DUE or do you allow proper time for mail delivery? Maybe you can give yourself a comfortable cushion by paying your monthly bills when they arrive in your mailbox instead of piling them up on your counter or in a drawer in your desk and paying them when they are due. We all get busy. It’s easy to forget a due date every now and then if the information isn’t right in front of you. Better to keep the reminders in plain sight than to hide them away. Even better: write out the check the very same day you receive the bill, put in in the payment envelope with receipt, and place these in a hard-to-miss place in your home (perhaps under a magnet on your refrigerator?) No, you don’t have to mail the check until it’s due and you have the funds in your checking account (Never pay a bill until the money is in your account!!!), but getting into the habit of writing your bills out ahead of the due date will help you from falling into the late-pay trap.

Do you pay bills automatically by electronic draft or through online bill pay options? If not, consider experimenting. I used to say I’d never do this, but for the past 2-3 years, I don’t think I’ve paid for a stamp to pay credit card payments. I’ve always paid my bills online. It’s easy, and you can tie your payment schedule to e-mail reminders.

When you apply for a new credit card, do you read the fine print? Yes, those new juicy zero-interest intro offers look good at first, but you might be stepping into a financial landmine if the terms don’t offer you some protection from things like the universal default clause we’ve discussed here today. Never let your guard down and forget the fact that you are entering into a legally binding agreement… one that could cost you dearly if you’re not careful.

Steve Johnson is publisher of http://www.FindHow2.com, which offers free advice on cleaning up your credit report to help improve your FICO credit score, as well as numerous free “how-to” articles on debt management, refinancing loans, and saving money.

STEP 1 OBTAINING YOUR CREDIT REPORT

The 1st thing you want to do is run your credit (if you haven’t done so already). For those of us who have had credit issues this can seem like the hardest part, the part you wanted to avoid but the truth is avoiding it will only make it worse. This is the most important step so PLEASE do yourself a favor and don’t skip it! After all you do want that new house, don’t you? I thought so!

This step is the most important because your credit has a great impact on the terms and percentage of your loan~ NO MATTER WHAT. Of course that does not mean you can’t get a loan if you have bad credit. There are many bad credit loans available today and we say thank goodness to that but we have yet to find a bad credit loan with a great low monthly payment and percentage rate. Unfortunately, that’s just the way it is but at least you can get a loan, years ago you would not have been able to do so with bad credit. So in order to reduce your monthly payment and % on a bad credit loan (or any other loan) you must know what is on your credit report to be able to fix it, the point is not necessarily to get your credit to a perfect standing, that takes a long time, what your trying to do is improve it as much as possible before your home purchase so that you can find a loan or bad credit loan that will work for you without it being a financial nightmare.

Also, by managing what is on your credit report you can improve your credit score a.k.a your Fico Score. This Number is the key element in determining the loans you will be eligible for and the terms within the loan. Higher FICO Scores = Lower Monthly Payments. If you have been only human (like most) and have made a few financial mistakes your credit report and Fico Score were most likely affected. It happens to the best of us and can sometimes take months, even years, to repair so that is why we list it as step #1. It needs to be put into action ASAP because it is a process that does take time. Often, there will be items on your credit report that do not belong to you, etc. These can be disputed and it takes about a month to update. Other things such as establishing or re-establishing credit take longer as do delinquent accounts, etc. I would see what you can do on your own first to fix it up but if it is to much of a mess to clean up on your own there are companies who can help you fix your credit and even remove some of the items. This also takes a lot of the stress off of you. Even if your credit is not an issue it is a good idea to run your credit and get your score. Knowing these can give you leverage during the loan negotiating process by allowing you to only accept the best offers that are reflective of your credit score.

Okay, now there are 3 ways in which you can obtain your credit report.

First, many people don’t know that they are entitled to one free credit report a year -per credit bureau, yes, all 3 are obligated to give you 1 free credit report a year. Here’s the catch- you have to ask for it. They do not automatically send it out. It is very easy; please take advantage of this if you have not already done so. You can you obtain it at www.annualcreditreport.com. Please note there are companies that offer free credit reports if you sign up for a trial offer of a product. This is not the same thing at all. You do not sign up for anything, it’s your for the taking-FREE!!!!The only downside is that your Fico Score is not included. You will have to purchase that from a credit bureau or you can purchase it from myFico.com either way it is worth the money.

Second, you can purchase a credit report through each individual credit bureau. The three credit bureau’s are: Experian, Equifax and Transunion. You can view it over the Internet or have it mailed to you. These sites sell their single report for a reasonable rate and you can add on your credit score for an additional fee. They also offer 3-n-1 credit reports which I do not recommend because they are very hard to read, you don’t really know which credit bureau has which accounts listed because everything is sort of merged together and they are VERY long.

Third, there are many other companies that can obtain your Fico Scores/Reports for a reasonable price. Just google “credit reports” and you’ll find hundreds. If you choose this route make sure you read the fine print. So, step one is over~ it only gets better from here and remember don’t worry, as long as your working at fixing your credit it will get better. Now on to step 2, one-step closer to your new home

STEP 2 LOWER YOUR DEBT

The 2nd step is to lower your debt (if you have not done so already). You want to try and bring your debt down as much as possible before owning a home. This sort of goes hand in hand with the credit report. Another factor lenders look at besides your credit score is your debt to ratio income (how much money you make vs. how much money you owe). When your debt to ratio income is good your % decreases. So basically if you pay down your debt you win two ways because paying down your debt will also improve your credit score (See, I told you this would get easier. Are you having fun yet?). So, if you get a better % you get a lower monthly payment and maybe even a better loan and then getting the loan wont be so financially stressful. I think an even more important reason to pay down your debt is so that you are not bogged down with bills AND a new mortgage. Why own a home if your always going to be at work trying to make ends me? I know it makes sense but is often easier said than done. There are many great companies who specialize in debt consolidation. Basically, they know little tricks that we might not when it comes to repaying our debt. Credit Solutions is a wonderful company, they are actually the debt settlement company in the US and were featured on NBC. Something to look in to. Anything to make life easier, especially during this time. Buying a home is a wonderful experience and you should be able to enjoy it so any shortcuts are worth taking

STEP 3 KNOW WHAT YOU CAN AFFORD

The 3rd step is as easy as a few clicks. Your friend the mortgage calculator can help you figure out what you can afford. Use an internet based mortgage calculator to find the right loan price for you. You can find one at www.casagrandenewhomes.info/Loan.html It’s free and very helpful. This will give you a heads up and maybe even make you re-think your price range +/-. Going in knowing what you can afford will also cut out the back and forth between you and a lender because you will know up front a price range that is financially acceptable for you. Also go in with a set price range and don’t exceed it unless you CAN afford it. Only you know what you can afford and remember you want to enjoy that new house right/ Even if it means passing up a few of the upgrades.

STEP 4 SHOP AROUND

Your 4th and final step is to find and choose the lender with that perfect loan. Do not let a whole bunch of lenders run your credit. Especially when you just went through all the trouble to improve it. Your looking for the loan that is just right for you, look for specials or ad’s that pertain to you. Do your homework on your top 5 and then from there choose 2 or 3 to work with. Have them competing over you. Remember you want to get the best deal, you’ve worked hard you deserve it. Now go and get ‘um!!!!! I have listed a few great online lenders but again try to find what works for you.

1. iMortgage Central iMortgage centralis a great company. They have thousands of loans to choose from. They allow you to compare lenders and choose the one that’s right for you. They get you 3 different quotes without pulling your credit, they also offer loans to those with bad credit, and you can get a quote within 24 hours. The best thing is there is no obligation. With iMortgage you can shop around with just one site and one application without it affecting your credit score. Perfect for all of the things we discussed above!

2. Ameriquest Ameriquest Mortgage is another great choice. They specialize in loans for those with not so perfect credit. Ameriquest is one of America’s most flexible lenders with over 28 years in experience. They provide excellent customer service and believe in finding the loan that is right for you. Visit them today for more details on all of their excellent loan and refinancing programs.

Finally you have made it, ready or not your loan awaits you. GOOD LUCK!!!!!!

Emily Murray is the author of this article and owner/operator of http://www.casagrandenewhomes.infohttp://www.casagrandenewhomes.info/Loan.html Emily Murray aims to inform individuals of steps to take in order to find the perfect loan at a lower interest rate. You can visit her site for further information on home loans, credit resources, debt relief, and more at